fighting the Z-fighting

[LEGION]

On this spot here: Without cutting the whole beam apart and changing dimensions, any method else?

If I decrease the size in lowest gird-size, it´s still noticeable that it does not fit if light falls on it, also I get a gap behind inside the room.

 

In UnrealEd I would merge the two beams so they are only one brush after(no intersections), but DarkRadiant tells me that merge fails because "result would not be convex".

 

Is there not the opposite of 'substract'? Meaning that the brush is built only on spots without intersections?

[Sotha]

I can't see what is going on in that image. Typical z-fighting issues can be remedied by one of the following:

• Caulk the z-fighting surface away.
• Resize dimensions so that the other z-fighting brush is slighly smaller (or bigger) so that it does not z-fight anymore. This is a good solution for your typical func_static ceiling beams, which intersect.
• Use the clipper to clip the f-fighting portion away.

EDIT: looked at you pic again and it looks you could really easily use the clipper to cut the z-fighting piece of the 45 degree tilted beam.

 

On this spot here: Without cutting the whole beam apart and changing dimensions, any method else?

If I decrease the size in lowest gird-size, it´s still noticeable that it does not fit if light falls on it, also I get a gap behind inside the room.

 

In UnrealEd I would merge the two beams so they are only one brush after(no intersections), but DarkRadiant tells me that merge fails because "result would not be convex".

 

Is there not the opposite of 'substract'? Meaning that the brush is built only on spots without intersections?

[LEGION]

Yeah, z-fighting is never visible on screenshots, but THANKS Sotha, Clipper indeed was what I needed, so easy. Who has 'Clipper is mapper´s best friend.' in his sig? Oh yeah, you...

 

I´ll use that now always. Resizing dimensions can cause further trouble as I described in first post so I won´t try that anymore.

[Sotha]

I´ll use that now always.

 

Good! With The Clipper you can do wondrous things and very quickly. Also remember that with shift+enter you get to keep both parts, which might be very useful in some situations. You can create all sorts of door portals and windows very fast with the clipper and with clever work-flow you even have the visportal brush and the door frame created and placed in the doorway with the same trouble.

 

Clipper truly is one of the most useful tool in the mappers arsenal.

[Komag]

Yes, clipper is, I think, THE most useful mapping tool in DR

[Aprilsister]

Is it really even possible to build a FM without it (clipper skillzings)?

 

And, while we are here, I've been meaning to ask just quickly without a derailment:

 

If I learn patches, I will become newly enthused no? It adds a lot of fun to mapping, no? And patches are in fact a good way to cover up niggles like this thread speaks to too? I imagine them as being a much easier way to grab some vertices and go wild...

[Shadowhide]

I never use clipper

 

if I want cut doorway,I just create brush and click on CSG subtract,I got same results but faster

 

Yes I know that CSG subtract can spawn superfluous brushes,but I use that function very neatly

Edited January 10, 2011 by Shadowhide

[Serpentine]

You can also use subtract more safely if you know which brushes you will be intersecting :

1. Place brush to cut with
   
2. Subtract
   
3. Select the newly cut brushes you wanted to keep
   
4. Copy
   
5. Undo subtract (removes any of the possible badness)
   
6. Delete old versions of the brushes (use a selection group next time )
   
7. Paste
   

 

While it sounds long, it really isnt

It makes mocking up hallways and irregular intersections much easier, since you can do most of the subtractions as a single operation with everything marked out nicely... I find it easier anyway.

[Baddcog]

The one reason I prefer clip over subtract even for simple doorways is you get clock wise (or counter) cuts. So the wall gets cut up along the door to top of brush. Then across the top to end of brush, then down the door.

 

I prefer to make 2 cuts down the wall on each side of door, then one across top. Makes brush movement, resizing easier. The brush above the door is always the width of doorway. and the brushes on either side stay full room height.

 

If subtracted you have 3 odd shaped brushes to deal with. If the door gets taller you have to resize 2 brushes, if the door moves sideways, 3 brushes to resize...

[Komag]

exactly. clipper is much more controlled, and inevitably SAVES time when you have to adjust things later because it's clean and logical as opposed to the "whatever" that you get with the subtract