Dead mobo, needs capacitors... help identify

[PranQster]

I bought a dead gaming PC recently*. FedEx had dropped the box the PC was shipped in and the CPU heatsink came off and sheared 3 capacitors from the board. The board can power on for about 1 second, with obviously no POST. I'm hoping to shop for capacitors only.

If I can get my hands on some Japanese TUF capacitors, I have an Sabertooth Z87 mobo with i7 4770 and 32GB Corsair DDR1600 to upgrade to. Unfortunately, trying to shop for titanium 10k hour @ 125C capacitors is not easy.

Can anyone tell what the other ratings from this capacitor might be, capacitance, etc...? If so, maybe I can order some compatible capacitors without having to pay for/receive another dead motherboard.

FP 10K
TUF
6.3/5 6 1
3 4 B E

*It was brought to me already dead to try to find a home for the parts.

Edited December 27, 2014 by PranQster

[Bikerdude]

Can anyone tell what the other ratings from this capacitor might be, capacitance, etc...? If so, maybe I can order some compatible capacitors without having to pay for/receive another dead motherboard.

FP 10K

TUF

6.3/5 6 1

3 4 B E

 

FP - is the type

TUF - I believe this refers to them being tough, eg. tough grade caps.

6.3 - is the voltage, 6.3v

561 - is the capacitance in micro farads, 561uF.

34 BE - will have to research

 

http://www.digikey.com/ seem to be a good place to start, got a photo of the capacitor/s?

 

Here is a good reference info - http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/solidcapacitor.html#fujitsu

[PranQster]

Awesome. Thanks. That makes it easier and narrows things down to where I could get different capacitors with the same specs. I'll post the blurry phone photo I referred to.

[PranQster]

Here's the pic

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Um25brX9t4M3Z4TjJiVHRydnc/view?usp=sharing

[PranQster]

FPCap is the company! I think I'll find it now.

Thanks a lot for the help Biker!

[PranQster]

This will probably do the trick even though rated 5000 hours at 105C, instead of 10000 hours at 125C. The rest of the specs seem to match well.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RL80J561MDNASQKX/493-4021-1-ND/2347909

 

I ordered 10 of them at $0.74 each. If they don't do the trick, I'm only out a few bucks.

Edited December 27, 2014 by PranQster

[Bikerdude]

grand, there must be somewhere that sells the exact ones that were on the board though. in the meantime -

 

• The strip on the top of the cap donates the negative lead btw, so make sure you solder them in the polarity etc.
• be careful removing the old caps and/or leads, you dont want to over heat the little holes and cause the track to lift of the PCB.
• Also be aware that most motherboard are multi layer, so those cap holes will probably have solder going all the way through the hole.

[Lux]

Caps that are popped will have a domed top on them. If the top is flat or concave a tad, they should be fine (in theory).

[PranQster]

This wasn't a situation of bad caps. 3 caps were sheared off from the motherboard when an FedEx employee dropped a box and the CPU heatsink broke off and smashed into the capacitors.**

But thanks for the tip... not sure that these solid aluminium/polymer/titanium caps bulge like the traditional ones do (I haven't yet seen a blown solid capacitor, but have seen many of the others). <<< notice I said "seen", not replaced or fixed But yes, I can usually verify visually a failed or near failing mobo by such bulged capacitors.

 

**If I ever ship a gaming PC to anybody, I will be sure to remove and pack the cpu heatsink separately with re-installation instructions included.

Edited December 28, 2014 by PranQster

[PranQster]

 

grand, there must be somewhere that sells the exact ones that were on the board though. in the meantime -

 

• The strip on the top of the cap donates the negative lead btw, so make sure you solder them in the polarity etc.
• be careful removing the old caps and/or leads, you dont want to over heat the little holes and cause the track to lift of the PCB.
• Also be aware that most motherboard are multi layer, so those cap holes will probably have solder going all the way through the hole.

 

Maybe somewhere, but the caps I ordered should do nicely. I'm not going to care about the difference of 5k hours or 10k hours at 105C or 125C. Those specs are way at the high end of tolerance, heat-wise, and won't (shouldn't) be occurring. I'll be replacing this board within a couple years anyway. I got a $2000+ PC* for less than $600, so if I need to replace the board next year I won't be disappointed.

Thanks for the tips. I can get the polarity correct without trouble as the board is marked and all of the missing caps locations are marked with same polarity as the remaining caps. All lined up like soldiers. I'll be careful with the soldering. In fact I'm probably going to get the help of a local electronics tech/teacher who is a soldering master. At the least he can help me prep the board properly, but knowing him he'll solder at least one and coach me through the rest.

 

*PC specs, approx from memory (some is in storage):

• NZXT big-ass mofo case which looks a bit like a cylon raider's head. I now call it "Scar" after mending it with 'kwik-weld' epoxy.
• Seasonic SS-750KM PSU
• Asus Sabertooth Z87 mobo, TUF, etc.
• Intel i7 4770 (IIRC, I forget...been using AMD for many years)
• Big-ass mofo cpu heatsink...forget which, likely coolermaster, with 120mm fan
• 32GB (2x 16GB modules) Corsair Vengence DDR3 1600MHz
• EVGA GTX 780, 3GB, 2304 core, 536-1306MHz clock, 6008MHz mem
• A bunch of fan-control shit mounted in the case...may be part of the (mediocre) NZXT case but didn't look closely enough yet
• 256GB Samsung SSD
• 1TB WDC Black
• Asus VE278Q monitor
• Some DVD burning thing
• mouse
• kb

wires, boxes, installation media (LOL I never did check for a Win7 disk, that might be in the mobo box too).

[Lux]

Have you done much circuit board soldering? The reason I ask is because if you've ever used solder braid to remove solder from pads...its a pain in the fucking ass. Get one of those "solder suckers". You just load it with a push button click and get the pad to liquid, put the tip against it and pOP! It sucks the solder off the pad instantly and because of the solder surface tension it pulls the through board stuff out too. Makes it very easy to remove soldered pins.

 

Looks like a beast of a rig, I hope the repair goes as planned and you're up and running quickly. Great deal you got too.

[PranQster]

Yes I have already done solder sucker on it to remove the pins from the old caps and the board is ready for the replacement caps. I will be sure to get help with applying new solder.

Thanks for the tips. I am so looking forward to getting this thing running. I have had the parts lying around for a few months, except the gf780 and monitor which I already put to use.

[Bikerdude]

Well it looks like I am doing the sdame thing, just been given a mobo with a missing cap, so am trying to source some over here in the UK.